mount kenya climbing chogoria route out sirimon Hiking and Trekking Mount Kenya climbing

Mount Kenya Exploration

European discovery
Mount Kenya was the second of the three highest peaks in Africa to be discovered by Europeans explorers. The first European to see it was Dr Johann Ludwig Krapf, a German missionary, from Kitui, a town 160 km (100 miles) away from the mountain. The discovery was made on 3 December 1849, a year after the discovery of Kilimanjaro.

Dr Krapf was told by people of the Embu tribe that lived around the mountain that they did not ascend high on the mountain because of the intense cold and the white matter that rolled down the mountains with a loud noise. This led him to infer that glaciers existed on the mountain. The Kikuyu confirmed these happenings.
Count Samuel Teleki was the first European to set foot on Mount Kenya. His expedition reached 4,350 m (14,270 ft).
Count Samuel Teleki was the first European to set foot on Mount Kenya. His expedition reached 4,350 m (14,270 ft).

Dr Krapf also noted that the rivers flowing from Mt Kenya, and other mountains in the area, were continuously flowing. This was very different from the other rivers in the area, which swelled up in the wet season and completely dried up after the rainy season had ended. As the streams flowed even in the driest seasons he concluded that there must be a source of water up on the mountain, in the form of glaciers. He believed the mountain to be the source of the White Nile.

In 1851 Krapf returned to Kitui. He travelled 40 miles closer to the mountain, but did not see it again. In 1877 Hildebrandt was in the Kitui area and heard stories about the mountain, but also did not see it. Since there were no confirmations to back up Krapf's claim people began to be suspicious.

Eventually, in 1883, Joseph Thomson passed close by the west side of the mountain and confirmed Krapf's claim. He diverted his expedition and reached 2743 m (9,000 ft) up the slopes of the mountain but had to retreat because of trouble with local people. However, the first true European exploration of the mountain was achieved in 1887 by Count Samuel Teleki and Ludwig von Höhnel. He managed to reach 4350 m (14,270 ft) on the south western slopes. On this expedition they believed they had found the crater of a volcano.

In 1892, Teleki and von Höhnel returned to the eastern side, but were unable to get through the forest.

Finally, in 1893, an expedition managed to ascend Mount Kenya as far as the glaciers. This expedition was travelling from the coast to Lake Baringo in the Rift Valley, and was led by Dr John W Gregory, a British geologist. They managed to ascend the mountain to around 4730 m (15,520 ft), and spent several hours on the Lewis Glacier with their guide. On his return to Britain, Gregory published papers and a narrative account of his achievements.

George Kolb, a German physician, made expeditions in 1894 and 1896 and was the first to reach the moorlands on the east side of the mountain. However, far more exploration was achieved after 1899 when the railway was completed as far as the site of Nairobi. Access to the mountain was far easier from here than from Mombasa on the coast.

Mackinder's Expedition
Sir Halford John Mackinder
On 28 July 1899, Sir Halford John Mackinder set out from the site of Nairobi on an expedition to Mt Kenya. The members of the expedition consisted of 6 Europeans, 66 Swahilis, 2 tall Maasai guides and 96 Kikuyu (Gĩkũyũ). The Europeans were Campbell B. Hausberg, second in command and photographer, Douglas Saunders, botanist, C F Camburn, taxidermist, Cesar Ollier, guide, and Josef Brocherel, guide and porter.
Halford Mackinder, Cesar Ollier and Josef Brocherel made the first ascent of Batian on the 13th of September 1899. The photo shows Mackinder and Ollier.
Halford Mackinder, Cesar Ollier and Josef Brocherel made the first ascent of Batian on the 13th of September 1899. The photo shows Mackinder and Ollier.

The expedition made it as far as the mountain, but encountered many difficulties on the way. The country they passed through was full of plague and famine. Many Kikuyu porters tried to desert with women from the villages, others stole from the villages which made the chiefs very hostile towards the expedition. When they reached the base camp on 18 August, they couldn't find any food, had two of their party killed by the local people, and eventually had to send Saunders to Naivasha to get help from Captain Gorges, the Government Officer there.

Mackinder pushed on up the mountain, and established a camp at 3142 m (10,310 ft)[18] in the Höhnel Valley. He made his first attempt on the summit on 30 August with Ollier and Brocherel up the south east face, but they had to retreat when they were within 100 m (yds) of the summit of Nelion due to nightfall.

On 5 September, Hausberg, Ollier and Brocherel made a circuit of the main peaks looking for an easier route to the summit. They could not find one. On 11 September Ollier and Brocherel made an ascent of the Darwin Glacier, but were forced to retreat due to a blizzard.

When Saunders returned from Naivasha with the relief party, Mackinder had another attempt at the summit with Ollier and Brocherel. They traversed the Lewis Glacier and climbed the south east face of Nelion. They spent the night near the gendarme, and traversed the snowfield at the head of the Darwin Glacier at dawn before cutting steps up the Diamond Glacier. They reached the summit of Batian at noon on 13th September, and descended by the same route.

1900-1930
Shipton and Russell made the first ascent of Pt John up the south-east gully in 1929
Shipton and Russell made the first ascent of Pt John up the south-east gully in 1929

After the first ascent of Mt Kenya there were fewer expeditions there for a while. The majority of the exploration until after the First World War was by settlers in Kenya, who were not on scientific expeditions. A Church of Scotland mission was set up in Chogoria, and several Scottish missionaries ascended to the peaks, including Rev Dr J W Arthur, G Dennis and A R Barlow. There were other ascents, but none succeeded in summiting Batian or Nelion.

New approach routes were cleared through the forest, which made access to the peaks area far easier. In 1920, Arthur and Sir Fowell Buxton tried to cut a route in from the south, and other routes came in from Nanyuki in the north, but the most commonly used was the route from the Chogoria mission in the east, built by Ernest Carr. Carr is also credited with building Urumandi and Top Huts.

On 6 January 1929 the first ascent of Nelion was made by Percy Wyn-Harris and Eric Shipton. They climbed the Normal Route, then descended to the Gate of Mists before ascending Batian. On the 8 January they reascended, this time with G A Sommerfelt, and in December Shipton made another ascent with R E G Russell. They also made the first ascent of Point John. During this year the Mountain Club of East Africa was formed.

At the end of July 1930, Shipton and Bill Tilman made the first traverse of the peaks. They ascended by the West Ridge of Batian, traversed the Gate of Mists to Nelion, and descended the Normal Route. During this trip, Shipton and Tilman made first ascents of several other peaks, including Point Peter, Point Dutton, Midget Peak, Point Pigott and either Terere or Sendeyo.

1931 to Present Day
In the early 1930s there were several visits to the moorlands around Mt Kenya, with fewer as far as the peaks. Raymond Hook and Humphrey Slade ascended to map the mountain, and stocked several of the streams with trout. By 1938 there had been several more ascents of Nelion. In February Miss C Carol and Mtu Muthara became the first woman and African respectively to ascend Nelion, in an expedition with Noel Symington, author of The Night Climbers of Cambridge, and on 5 March Miss Una Cameron became the first woman to ascent Batian.

During the Second World War there was another drop in ascents of the mountain. Perhaps the most notable of this period is that of three Italian Prisoners of War, who were being held in Nanyuki, and escaped to climb the mountain before returning to the camp and "escaping" back in. No Picnic on Mount Kenya tells the story of the prisoners' exploit.

In 1949 the Mountain Club of Kenya split from the Mountain Club of East Africa, and the area above 3,400 m (11,150 ft) was designated a National Park. A road was built from Naro Moru to the moorlands allowing easier access.

Many new routes were climbed on Batian and Nelion in the next three decades, and in October 1959 the Mountain Club of Kenya produced their first guide to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro.[19] In the early 1970s the Mount Kenya National Park Mountain Rescue Team was formed, and by the end of the 1970s all major routes on the peaks had been climbed.[19]

In 1997 Mount Kenya was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Local Culture
The main tribes living around Mount Kenya are Gĩkũyũ, Meru, Embu and Maasai. They all see the mountain as an important aspect of their cultures.

Gĩkũyũ
Several tribes that live around Mount Kenya believe the mountain to be sacred. For this reason they used to build their houses facing the mountain, with the doors on the side nearest to it.
Several tribes that live around Mount Kenya believe the mountain to be sacred. For this reason they used to build their houses facing the mountain, with the doors on the side nearest to it.

The Gĩkũyũ live on the southern and western sides of the mountain. They are agriculturalists, and make use of the highly fertile volcanic soil on the lower slopes. The Gĩkũyũ people believed that their God, Ngai lived on Mount Kenya. It is the place where Gĩkũyũ, the father of the tribe, used to meet with their God, Ngai. They used to build their houses with the doors facing the mountain. The Gĩkũyũ name for Mount Kenya is 'Kĩrĩ Nyaga' (Kirinyaga), which literally translates to 'has ostriches'. The mountain looks like an ostrich; black body and white tip (tail feathers). God's name in Kikuyu is also 'Mwene Nyaga' meaning 'owner of the ostriches'.

Embu
The Embu people believe that Mount Kenya is the home of their God, Ngai. The mountain is sacred, and they build their houses with the doors facing towards it. The Embu name for Mount Kenya is Kirenia, which means mountain of whiteness.

Ameru
The Ameru occupy the East and North of the Mountain. They are generally agricultural and also keep livestock. They occupy among the most fertile land in Kenya. The Meru names for the Mt. Kenya are Kirimara (That which has white stuff or snow). Some Meru songs refer to 'Kirimara no makengi'(The mountain is all speckles.)

Main Peaks of Mount Kenya
Batian on the left, Nelion on the right, and Slade in the foreground
Batian on the left, Nelion on the right, and Slade in the foreground
Krapf Rognon (4.800 m) and Krapf glacier
Krapf Rognon (4.800 m) and Krapf glacier

* Batian (5199 m - 17,058 ft)
* Nelion (5188 m - 17,022 ft)
* Pt Lenana (4985 m - 16,355 ft)
* Coryndon Peak (4960 m - 16,273 ft)
* Pt Pigott (4957 m - 16,266 ft)
* Pt Thompson (4955 m - 15,466 ft)
* Pt Dutton (4885 m - 16,027 ft)
* Pt John (4883 m - 16,016 ft)
* Pt Melhuish (4880 m - 16,010 ft)
* Pt John Minor (4875 m - 15,990 ft)
* Krapf Rognon (4800 m - 15,740 ft)[19]
* Pt Peter (4757 m - 15,607 ft)
* Pt Slade (4750 m - 15,580 ft)
* Terere (4714 m - 15,462 ft)
* Sendeyo (4704 m - 15,433 ft)
* Midget Peak (4700 m - 15,420 ft)
* The Hat (4639 m - 15,220 ft)
* Delamere Peak
* Macmillan Peak

Glaciers on Mount Kenya
The Lewis glacier is the largest on Mount Kenya
The glaciers on Mount Kenya are retreating rapidly. The Mountain Club of Kenya in Nairobi has photographs showing the mountain when it was first climbed in 1899, and again more recently, and the retreat of the glaciers is very evident.[25] Descriptions of ascents of several of the peaks advise on the use of crampons, but now there is no ice to be found. There is no new snow to be found, even on the Lewis Glacier (the largest of them) in winter, so no new ice will be formed. It is predicted to be less than 30 years before there is no more ice on Mount Kenya.[23]

The area of glaciers on the mountain was measured in the 1980s, and recorded as about 0.7 km² (0.25 square miles).[26] This is far smaller than the first observations, made in the 1890s.

Water streams starting around Mount Kenya
Mount Kenya is the main water catchment area for two large rivers in Kenya; the Tana River, the largest river in Kenya, and the Ewaso Ng'iro North.[6] The Mount Kenya ecosystem provides water directly for over 2 million people.[6] The streams that start on Mount Kenya are:

* the Sirimon
* the Liki
* the Nanyuki
* Mutonga
* Kithino
* the Nazita
* Thingithu
* the Nitmi
* the Tnuchi
* Kathita
* the Nyamindi
* the Sagana
* Nairobi River
* the Naro Moru
* the Burguret

Ecology of Mount Kenya
The flora and fauna of Mount Kenya is very diverse, due to the differences in altitude, rainfall, aspect and temperature. The mountain slopes are often split up into zones, with each zone having different dominant plant species. Most plants on Mount Kenya do not have common English names. Wet weather on the mountain comes from the Indian Ocean, to the east and south-east. Consequently these slopes are wettest.

Lowlands surrounding the mountain
The area surrounding the mountain is around 1000 m (3,250 ft) in height. It is very hot and dry, and mainly covered with grasslands and thorny scrub.

Cultivated zone
The lower slopes of Mount Kenya are very fertile and the area is heavily cultivated
The lower slopes of Mount Kenya are very fertile and the area is heavily cultivated

The lower slopes of the mountain have a huge potential for cultivation. The soils are moist and very fertile due to volcanic activity. The slopes below 1,800 m (5,900 ft) are intensively farmed, producing tea, coffee, beans, maize, bananas, potatoes and vegetables. A few large scale farms have been set up, where wheat and barley are grown. Livestock are also kept in less productive areas, particularly cows for their milk.

The crops grown around the mountain differ, as the amount of rainfall between the northern and southern slopes is very different. The southern slopes are much wetter, so are ideal for growing tea and coffee, whereas the northern slopes are too dry for these crops. A system of irrigation has been developed which has increased productivity. However, as so many people in Kenya are dependent on the rainfall on the mountain, this is reducing the amount of water that gets to more distant areas and causing drought there.

Between 1,800 and 2,500 m (5,900-8,200 ft) there is sub-montane forest, which is exploited by the local people. There are many forest based industries, such as sawmills, furniture and construction, based around these slopes.[6]

Montane forest
The montane forest around Mount Kenya is full of a variety of species The lower limit of the forest is between 2,000 and 2,500 m (6,550-8,200 ft). Here again, there are differences in the vegetation on different aspects of the mountain. On the south-east slopes the dominant species is Ocotea usambarensis, which can grow up to 45 m (150 ft). Mosses, lichens and ferns also grow here.

On the northern slopes the dominant species is the East African juniper Juniperus procera.[2] This can be over 30 m (100 ft) tall and is used as softwood timber. Also used as timber is Podo, Podocarpus milanjianus, which can grow to 45 m (150 ft).[2] The African Olive Olea africana is common in drier forest and at lower elevations. Schefflera is similar to strangler figs, where it starts as an epiphyte and kills the host tree. Common shrubs are elderberry Sambucus africanus, and raspberry. Herbs are common in the forest. Most common are clover (Trifolium), Shamrock pea (Parochetus communis), sunflecks (Guizotia reptans), orchids (Impatiens spp.), mints (Leonotis spp.and Plectranthus spp.) and stinging nettles (Urtica massaica).

Many species of animals live in the montane forest. Some are residents, and others visit from the surrounding land. Various species of monkeys, several antelopes, tree hyrax and some larger animals such as elephant and buffalo all live in the forest. Zebra are only found on the northern slopes, where the forest belt is narrowest. Some rare species, such as the giant forest hog, suni, and mountain bongo are found here. Predators include hyena and leopard, and occasionally lion. Many bird species are also found here, including turacos, francolins and hornbills. Various types of sunbirds, parrots, swallows and mountain buzzards are common. At the Met Station, on the Naro Moru route, the Green ibis (Mesembrinibis cayennensis) and Abyssinian ground-thrush are found, both of which are rare. Also on the Naro Moru route buffalo have been observed digging the soil with their horns and eating it. This is probably because of the iron in the soil, which is necessary for adaptation to altitude.

Bamboo zone
The bamboo suppresses other vegetation growth, roads allow other species to populate. The bamboo suppresses other vegetation growth, roads allow other species to populate.

The bamboo zone is found in the middle of the forest zone. It is entirely natural, and not the result of deforestation. Bamboo is very dependent on rainfall. For this reason it is very sparse in the north, and in some places absent entirely. In the west the bamboo can grow up to 9 m (30 ft), and in the wetter south-eastern slopes it can grow as high as 15 m (50 ft). Bamboo suppresses other vegetation, but there are scattered trees in this zone, including juniper, podocarpus, and witch-hazel, plus varieties of flowers, ferns and mosses.

As bamboo is not palatable to most animals, there is very little resident fauna here. However, there are many tracks through the bamboo made by large animals such as buffalo and elephant on their way between the forests and the moorland higher up the mountain.

Timberline forest
Mosses are common in the timberline forest
The timberline forest is usually found between 3,000 and 3,500 m (9,850-11,500 ft), although it extends to lower altitudes on the drier slopes.Smaller trees dominate in the timberline forest, and the characteristic trees are African rosewood (Hagenia abyssinica) and Giant St John's Wort (Hypericum). The common flowers are red-hot poker (Kniphofia thomsonii), giant forest lobelia (Lobelia bambuseti) and violets (Viola spp.). Red-hot pokers are some of the flowers found in timberline forest and lower heathland zones
Red-hot pokers are some of the flowers found in timberline forest and lower heathland zones

Heathland and chaparral

Heathland and chaparral are found between 3,200 and 3,800 m (10,500-12,500 ft). Heathland is found in the wetter areas, and chaparral is found in the drier ones. Most of the plants in these areas are shrubs with small leaves. The dominant plants in the heathland areas are Erica, which can grow to over 10 m tall. In chaparral the plants are often shrubbier and more aromatic, such as African sage (Artemisia afra) and sugarbush (Protea kilimanjaro). Herbs found in the heathland and chaparral zone are gentians (Swertia spp.) and sedges (Carex spp.), with alpine species living higher up in the zone.

Animals in this zone are a mixture of forest and alpine species. There are few resident large animals in this zone, but rats, mice and voles live at this altitude, and their predators, the eagles, buzzards and kites, are present.[2] Herds of eland are sometimes found, and occasional lions, but there are no longer rhino on Mount Kenya.

Afro-alpine zone
Giant groundsels in the Mackinder Valley
Giant groundsels in the Mackinder Valley

The Afro-alpine zone starts at about 3,800 m (12,500 ft). It is characterised by thin dry air and a huge temperature fluctuation.
The inflorescence of Lobelia telekii can grow up to 3 m (10 ft) tall
The inflorescence of Lobelia telekii can grow up to 3 m (10 ft) tall

Plants are subject to solifluction, where needle-ice is produced every night. This ice uproots seedlings and can damage roots. Some plants have evolved to live without roots, such as lichens and moss-balls. Giant groundsel (Senecio keniodendron) and Lobelia keniensis have spongy areas between the cells in their leaves where water can freeze every night without damaging the plants.[29] When these plants are subjected to temperatures above 15°C (59°F), photosynthesis is considerably reduced.[28]

Vegetation becomes more sparse at this altitude, with small and giant heathers being dominant. Some, the Philippias, can grow as high as 10 m (33 ft). The dominant plant in the Afro-alpine zone on Mount Kenya is the tussock grass Festuca pilgeri[30]

There are three kinds of giant rosette plants; Carduus, Senecio and Lobelia. Carduus keniensis, the giant thistle, is endemic to Mount Kenya and the Aberdares. Giant groundsels, Senecio spp. (or "Dendrosenecio"), are only found on East African mountains. They have leaves up to 1 m (3 ft) long, and some species have arborescent (treelike) stems.

Senecio keniodendron is endemic to Mount Kenya. It is a giant rosette plant, and can grow up to 6 m (20 ft) tall. It tends to grow in dense groups of even-sized plants, and flowers every 5-20 years, often in synchrony across the population.

Two species, Senecio keniodendron and Senecio keniensis are separated by altitude and topography. S. keniodendron occurs more frequently with increasing elevation above 3,900 m (12,800 ft) and up to 4,500 m (14,750 ft),[31] whereas S. keniensis occurs mainly below 4,000 m (13,000 ft) and very rarely above 4,200 m (13,750 ft). At intermediate elevations, S. brassica occurs mainly on the wetter valley bottoms, and S. keniodendron mostly on the drier slopes. Where the two species come in close proximity, hybrids are not uncommon.

Also present are Carex monostachya, Agrostis trachyphylla, Carduus platyplyllus, Arabis alpina, Senecio keniophytum and Lobelia telekii.
There are giant grass tussocks - Festuca pilgeri in wetter areas and Pentaschistis minor in drier areas.

Senecio keniensis, Lobelia keniensis and tussock grasses are dominant in the wetter areas. The Alchemilla species A. cyclophylla, A. argyrophylla and A. johnstonii are dominant in the drier areas. Giant lobelias grow as sessile rosettes up to 50cm across, but produce inflorescences to 3 m (10 ft) tall. Tussock grass grows alongside the lobelias. Giant lobelias grow as sessile rosettes up to 50cm across, but produce inflorescences to 3 m (10 ft) tall. Tussock grass grows alongside the lobelias.

There are over 100 species of wildflowers in the Afro-alpine zone including everlastings (Helichrysum spp.), buttercups (Ranunculus orephytes), sunburst (Haplocarpha rupellii) and African gladiola (Gladiolus thomsoni). Because of variation in flowering times, some species are in flower at all times of year.

On the alpine slopes there are plenty of birds. Many species of sunbirds live here, as well as alpine chats, starlings, wagtails and birds of prey such as auger buzzard, lammergeier, Mackinders's eagle owl, and Verreaux's eagle (which specializes on hunting rock hyrax). Birds pollinate Lobelia species.

There are also butterflies, but there are not bees, wasps, fleas or mosquitoes. Trout have been introduced to the streams and tarns and are now found all around the mountain.

Smaller mammal species live in the Afro-alpine zone, including the groove-toothed rat, giant mole-rats, various African dormice and rock hyrax. Few large mammals are found at this altitude. Eland and zebra are found in dry areas, and common duiker are found throughout the alpine zone. Buffalo, elephant and hyena are also visitors.

The only common large mammalian carnivore in the Afro-alpine zone is the leopard, although leopard, lion and hyena have all been seen on Point Lenana.

The Nival zone
Plants in the nival zone are scarce. They must be small to withstand the climate.
Plants in the nival zone are scarce. They must be small to withstand the climate.

The nival zone is the area above most vegetation. On Mount Kenya this area is usually above 4,500 m (14,750 ft). There are still scattered giant groundsels, Helichrysum and Lobelia, as well as a few other plant species. Buffalo, elephant, leopard and hyena have all been seen in this zone, although very infrequently

Walking Routes up Mount Kenya
There are eight walking routes up to the main peaks. Starting clockwise from the north these are the: Meru, Chogoria, Kamweti, Naro Moru, Burguret, Sirimon and Timau Routes. Of these Chogoria, Naro Moru and Sirimon and used most frequently and therefore have staffed gates. The other routes require special permission from the Kenya Wildlife Service to use.